Shopping: Style in The Plaka and Monastiraki

This afternoon I visited the Plaka, a historic shopping district that mingles fine jewelry shops with stores of fur coats, imitation luggage stands with tourist t-shirt shops. Stylish people are everywhere, shopping at open air market shops and expensive clothing and leather goods stores. You won't have to worry if you're looking for an open-air cafe to people watch - you'll find one on every corner.

It's an interesting area, with old architecture standing proud amidst new structures. In many ways, the area reminds me of New York City. As I walked for miles, I happened upon the garment district with shops of gorgeous fabrics and trim, and even more shops of wedding gowns and specialty clothing, then wandered into a more definite area of flea market type venues and moveable street-corner stands. What I mean by moveable is that the "vendors" would sell their wares until they spotted police, at which time they'd pack up fast and move to areas without police presence.

Nearby Monastiraki is the true flea market district, with vintage shops nestled side-by-side with tourist junk shops. I found a true gem in a shop just down the street from the Central Market. I'd tell you the name, but the reciept is all in Greek, and our alphabet doesn't translate neatly! The store was hard to describe, actually. Imagine four stories of crammed-to-the-ceiling vintage stuff (not all nice, mind you). Nothing is priced. French turn-of-the-century furniture sits next to old modems. Hand-painted icons are alongside Oreo cookie tins. There is barely room to walk without knocking something over. But I was delighted to find one thing I'd set out to purchase while in Europe - a 50-year old handmade wooden bread bowl. Now my trick will be getting it back to the UK and then home again to the US!

Filistron in Athens!

Valentine's Day is fast approaching, and my husband surprised me with a weekend trip to Greece. What fun! Little did we know that the day before we arrived, the airports were closed due to a controller strike, the day we arrived the taxis were on strike, and tomorrow and Sunday the private sector is supposed to go on strike. Wow!

Even so, we met with our friends Lazaros and Bernhard for a wonderful meal at Filistron Restaurant. It's a small place frequented by Greek families, tucked high in the hills overlooking the Acropolis and Lycabettus. The night lighting provided a wonderful backdrop for our meal in the cozy restaurant. We also learned that the word "Filistros" was a word in Orphic hymns that referred to the state of "oistros," or a state filled with desire or lust.

Let me tell you, this restaurant's food can indeed inspire desire and lust. Amazing. Simply amazing.  We liked it so much we dined there again two days later - and it was every bit as delicious.

Meals are served on small sharing plates, much like the tapas of Spain. We enjoyed and incredible Greek salad with Feta cheese and rich olive oil, dolmades - the stuffed vine leaves with rice, pine nuts and yogurt sauce, tryopita - homemade cheese pie from Skopelos, tsatsiki - a refreshing cucumber and dill spread, and perhaps the unanimous favorite of all, veal stuffed aubergine (with a hint of cinnamon in the meat) in a tomato, cream and olive oil sauce with a sprinkling of shredded cheese.  The halloumi cheese was perfectly grilled, and Lazaros showed us that the Greeks eat it with fresh squeezed lemon juice on top - delicious!  We tasted slow cooked chicken and pork in incredibly flavorful sauces, and meat-stuffed onions. The plates kept coming until we could barely eat any more. And then they brought out the dessert!

Two dessert dishes we'll definitely make at home: creamy Greek yogurt layered with honey and toasted walnuts, and a rum-soaked cake with layers of Greek yogurt and pistachios, honey and blueberries.

Our bonus for the meal? We had companions. A stray mama cat and her litter of kittens perched on the ledge just next to where I was sitting, meowing for treats through the glass.

Our unanimous verdict? Filistron is fabulous. If you go early, the crowds will be minimal. But since Greeks tend to eat dinner around 10 pm, you'll notice it gets more crowded as the evening goes on. Go hungry. Stay late. Enjoy everything!

http://www.filistron.com/
Greece phone: 2103422897

Windsor Castle and Her Majesty's Kitchens

Perhaps one of the greatest national treasures in England is Windsor Castle.  The magnificent structure has been in operation for more than 900 years and is one of the Queen's official residences today. 

These walls have seen the passing of the crown through nearly 40 generations of royals. It is the largest working castle in the world, with more than 160 residents.  Much of the castle is off limits and business carries on as usual throughout the day, with a cleaning staff of 100+ to keep it pristine.


Unless you are in a helicopter, it is impossible to photograph the vast exterior in a single shot.

Though interior photography is strictly prohibited, with its exquisite art and furnishings, a massive show of weaponry and medieval armor, and raw history in every room, the castle is astonishing.  Count on spending at least a full day.  The complementary audio tour offers exceptional insight into each room and firsthand interviews with historians, including recollections and explanations on the rebuilding process after the great fire of 1992, as seen in this BBC news shot.  The first time we visited England was just after the fire, and I still recall seeing the charred stones and the smell of lingering smoke in the air.  Inside now, the castle is flawless. In fact, the fire revealed 14th century stone arches hidden beneath waterlogged woodwork.  According to our guide, the archaeological wealth of information obtained during the restoration process was significant and included an previously undocumented well and larders.

We purchased an extra ticket to have a behind-the-scenes tour of the Queen's kitchens, which are only open to the public when state dinners and other functions are not taking place.  For a foodie like me, it was fascinating!   To the left is a historical perspective on the main kitchen space, with Gothic arches and vaulted ceilings.  Ancient Kitchen, Windsor Castle, engraved by William James Bennett 1787-1844 from The History of the Royal Residences by William Henry Pyne 1769-1843 pub. 1818, a painting by James Stephanoff.

To the right, the kitchen following the restoration post-fire and before decorating.  The historical integrity and some of the original timbers were retained while modern amenities were updated, and an improved ceiling ventilation system was cleverly disguised behind custom woodwork. During the restoration, the 30+ chefs and sous chefs asked for additional task lighting to illuminate their work surfaces.

The room is now lined with an impressive collection of copper cookware emblazoned with royal insignias and gathered from royal estates throughout the UK.  Though the cookware is not used for food prep today, the chefs provide their own preferred equipment for cooking, and still rely on a Victorian-era gas range installed in one of the alcoves. Decorative iron spits sit at both ends of the room.  A separate cold kitchen with walk-in refrigerator is adjacent to the main space, and an 18th century wine cellar still in use grounds the staff dining space.  An elevator shuttles food up to the state dining rooms from the kitchens.  When cooking is underway, the guide staff revealed that the tone in the kitchen is quiet and relaxed.

Good to know: if you purchase your ticket to the castle on site, you can receive a special stamp to allow free re-entry into the castle grounds for up to one year. Take advantage and go back several times.  I predict you'll discover something new each time you visit.

www.windsor.gov.uk

Soothing music to my ears in the London Underground

Sometimes, music can truly take you away. We've all heard the musicians playing in bus and train stations, performing on street corners.  But did you know that in London this process requires a busker's audition and an annual license?

According to the Underground's website, "The London Underground (LU) busking scheme was set up in 2003 to manage what was previously an illegal and unregulated activity."

Now, more than 400 buskers play in two-hour time slots to 3000 music events every week in Tube stations. So the next time you pass a busker - pause to listen, pay a compliment, or share a smile.  It is their job to entertain us, and our job to appreciate what they do.

Sourced Market

Busy train stations are not usually the home of fresh produce and fine food markets, but Sourced Market has carved its niche in food history by choosing St. Pancras station in downtown London as its permanent home. There you'll find the Britain's best-of-the-best in artisan food and produce, with brands such as Pate Moi and Burnt Sugar.

Though the market also tours to various locales around the city, at St. Pancras you can count on a changing selection of produce, hot fresh soups and sandwiches, gourmet pates and cheeses, fine wines, savories, sweets and more.  Friendly staff will make great recommendations for a takeaway dinner or train journey snack - just ask!

Located at the international connection point for the Eurostar and local trains, the market is spot on for convenience.  

Open seven days a week, from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.

www.sourcedmarket.com

Loch Fyne : A Fine Bite to Eat

Seafood lovers will enjoy an evening at Loch Fyne Oyster and Seafood Restaurant.  We visited the Wokingham location the other night, and thoroughly enjoyed our meal.  Drinks were a bit pricey, but the menu did offer good nightly specials with limited quantities.  Wait staff tended well to diner's needs and offered friendly smiles and conversation.

At our table, a trio of uniquely flavored pieces of salmon as a starter was a delightful way to become familiar with the varying smoking techniques Loch Fyne uses to enhance the fish.  With mussels soft and tender, and scallops prepared to perfection, we knew to trust the chef's technique with delicate fresh seafood.  Main courses of crisp pan-fried bream and a generous portion of Friday night comfort food fish pie followed. 

46 locations throughout the United Kingdom. 
www.lochfyne.com

Breakfast with a Side of History -- Woodlands Park Hotel in Stoke D'Abernon, Surrey

This morning offered one of those rare occasions that has left an indelible impression on us.  Ever the hungry Americans, Nick and I went in search of breakfast in Surrey.  (Mind you, fast food as we know it in the states barely exists in the UK - it's just not done!) As we were driving down a country road, we came upon the stunning Woodlands Park Hotel and took a chance.

When we asked a dapper-looking hotel employee if they were open for breakfast, he glanced at his watch, smiled broadly and told us to park and come on inside.  His first words as he greeted us at the front door were "I must warn you, as you walk through these doors you will enter a house of sin and debauchery."  The hotel earned its reputation as a party house well before the end of the 19th century.

Imagine our surprise when we realized they'd set a beautiful table by the window and re-opened the Benson's Brasserie just for us!  My  kudos and compliments go to the chef - I enjoyed perhaps the best Eggs Benedict I've had in years.  The Hollandaise was superbly creamy and rich, with well balanced seasonings.  We liked the food and hospitality so much that we're going back for a proper Sunday lunch in the Oak Room, a magnificent wood-paneled space with a view to the grounds.

Though we weren't guests in the hotel, after breakfast, Joe - our personal concierge and the man who invited us in - took us on a splendid tour of the property, sharing insight and fascinating historical tidbits. There is a tricky poltergeist residing in room 39, which many guests have experienced and come back to visit.

Built in 1884 by Rowland Plumbe and funded by the fortunes of the Bryant and May match company, Plumbe "was commissioned with a  free hand, unfettered in the slightest degree by economical considerations." The grand country retreat of Frederick C. Bryant, the house was once considered the most modern house in all of England, with every convenience including an Otis elevator and electric lighting. As a jewel of Edwardian Society, the home regularly hosted the likes of the then Prince of Wales who went onto become King Edward VII, one of his 11 known mistresses Lillie Langtry, and the notorious playwright Oscar Wilde.


After a meticulous restoration in the early 1980s, the hotel now offers luxurious accommodations with all modern conveniences for a reasonable price in a lovely country setting.  If you're feeling decadent, opt for the Master's Chamber, Lillie Langtry's favorite room, or the splendid Oscar Wilde Suite. 


And without a doubt, ask for Joe and spend some time with him.  His philosophy?  "We are in the hospitality business.  Why come to an historic place and not be treated to a tour and a bit of knowledge about what makes it so special?"

Joe, you are an absolute delight.

Woodlands Park Hotel
Woodlands Lane
Stoke D'Abernon
Cobham, Surrey KT11 3QB
0845 072 7581
handpickedhotels.co.uk

Rare Cook Books - Charity Shop Treasures

Okay, so these books may not be "rare" in the truest sense of the word, but they are collectible to cooks who can never seem to have enough reference volumes in the library. Local charity shops - thrift stores as they might say in the US -- are a treasure trove for out of print books not readily available on the open market.

This week, I picked up a few gems to study and cook from at home:
-- Wild Harvest with Nick Nairn - Over 100 recipes from Scotland's hottest chef
-- Raymond Blanc - Recipes from Le Manoir Aux Quat' Saisons
-- Rick Stein's Guide to the Food Heroes of Britain
-- Soup Kitchen - The Ultimate Collection from the Ultimate Chefs including Nigella Lawson, Jamie Oliver, Gordon Ramsay and Rick Stein
-- Death by Chocolate by Marcel Desaulniers

The best part of these culinary finds? None of them cost more than a pound. Though Death by Chocolate is one of my favorite cookbooks in my US home kitchen (and I'm thrilled to have it on hand again), I hadn't yet worked with any of the others.

I've done a little research and discovered that Wild Harvest was Michelin-starred Nick Nairn's first cookbook, and he's gone on to produce more than 20 books and multiple television series. His fame in the UK is legendary. Better yet, he now runs a Cook School in Port of Menteith, Stirling, Scotland to teach New Scottish Cookery.

Sounds like a cooking adventure to me . . .

Chinese Cooking with Ginger Chocolate Pumpkin Fish

Yesterday was our day to taste the authentic foods of China, courtesy of Shelagh Klein's Ginger Chocolate Pumpkin Fish cooking class for the American Women of Surrey.

On the menu was a broad range of tastes to tease the palate. Shelagh shared with us the classic Sichuan flavours of sweet, sour, salty, fragrant, bitter and nutty. As she demonstrated, each flavor can be enjoyed singly, or coupled together to create complex flavor notes.

Chinese dining custom dictates the enjoyment of one dish at a time. Unlike those cultures that combine foods on a plate, the Chinese approach to dining is geared toward savoring individual flavors.

The lessons to be learned:
--take small portions of each offered dish to save room for the ones yet to be served
--never smack chopsticks together (it's rude!)
--never stab or pierce food with a chopstick (definitely not polite!)
--fine Chinese egg noodles do not have to be boiled - simply pour boiling water over the noodles and allow to soften for several minutes

On the menu:
Chinese mixed vegetables
Pan-fried baby bok choy
Steamed Fish Chinese style
Steamed Chicken Chinese style
Chili prawns
Ma Pos bean curd
Singapore fried noodles
Angel food cake with homemade fudge sauce

At home last night, I tackled the Ma Pos Bean Curd with great success, and adapted the Singapore Fried Noodles to include pork mince. The family loved it!

Another great timesaver tip about cooking Chinese - shake the sauce ingredients in a jar as far in advance as is convenient for you. The flavors will blend and intensify.

Gadgets, Cookware and Inspiration: The Art of Living in Cobham

I can spend hours combing the shelves in kitchen shops (and frequently do!). Yesterday I visited The Art of Living in Cobham, Surrey. Offering a wide range of top-quality crystal ware and cast iron cookware, the shop is colorful and well organized.

Count on discovering artistic items to enhance your home's kitchen space and functional gadgets to make cooking easier.

My finds for the day: two sizes of white porcelain lidded terrines ready to be filled with my herb butter and country pate.

The Art of Living
16 Anyards Road
Cobham, Surrey KT11 2JZ
01932 865508
www.artoflivingcookshop.co.uk

Chef Wear supplier in Leatherhead, Surrey

Need high quality aprons? Want a chef's jacket? Wishing for a pair of chef's clogs at a great price? How about professional grade knives?

Denny's in Leatherhead, Surrey is an industry supplier of uniforms and footwear. Located in an industrial area, the walk-up trade counter is open to the public and offers cash and carry convenience. Retail shops in Soho and London.

To view the online catalog, visit www.dennys.co.uk. Online purchase and delivery available.

Farm Fresh - Garsons of Esher, Surrey

Farms with more than a hundred years of history are worth visiting, and Garsons is one such Surrey farm. Growing since 1871 in the sand-dusted fields near the River Mole, Garsons supplies the London wholesale market with fresh produce.

At the site, a well-appointed garden centre offers outdoor clothing and wellies, kitchenware and furnishings as well as a wide range of indoor and outdoor plants. The Farm Shop is a testament to local produce and international goodies. Though the meat section is small, the selection is first class. An impressive cheese and deli counter represents tastes from all over Europe.

In Spring through early Autumn, Garsons offers pick-your-own fields of strawberries, raspberries, asparagus, runner beans and sunflowers.

For more information visit www.garsons.co.uk.

Borough Market Bliss

Who doesn't love being surrounded by the freshest-of-fresh food, visitors from all over the world, and food vendors who absolutely love what they do? Borough Market 'neath the London Bridge is always a fascinating gourmet destination with plenty of surprises in store.

When we stepped inside the bustling Green Market, our good buddy Luke enjoyed a tiny pretzel (that we all ended up sharing!), while we picked up Dutch cheeses, handmade French rabbit terrine and cheval with local venison (pigs trotters, roasted fennel and smoked garlic). Delicious!

Over in the Jubilee Market, Roger of Villanova carved us slim layers of Prosciutto Sardo di Desulo, and in the Middle Market butchers at the Ginger Pig sliced made-to-order veal chops just for our dinner. A glass of mulled wine, a study of ready-to-be-plucked-and-cooked birds, and a quick run to the Utobeer shop and Flour Station Bakery and we were on our way to cook and savor all night. What a wonderful feast to share with friends!

Here's my thought on the matter. Why settle for second best at the dinner table when Borough Market is just a train ride and a tasty afternoon away?

Borough Market - open Thursday, Friday and Saturday
- By tube to London Bridge or Borough underground stations
- By train to London Bridge mainline station
- By bus to London Bridge, Borough High Street or Southwark Street
- By foot along the Thames Path on the Southbank or over London Bridge from the City

Dining -- Warwick style

Ever the foodie, I of course loved studying the dining style in Warwick Castle. Social history and the everyday details of life in other time periods fascinate me.

Because feasting was such an important event, artisans captured the images in stained glass. This tiny window was tucked into a peak of the chapel's anteroom, but I was struck by its level of fine detail. Notice the high spirits of the guests and the lavishness of the feast on the table, from the wild game to the abundance of fruits and wine. In one of the castle's interior rooms, a depiction of King Henry VIII with his wives is arranged around another indulgent feast.

In the grand dining room, the table was set with crystal and exquisite china. The classic table setting for formal occasions was as appropriate in centuries past as it is now - elegance defined. And it seems that every era craves sweets.

Warwick Castle - One of Britain's Gems

Let me preface this post by saying that medieval castles are really cool, no matter how run down or preserved they are and no matter how long you get to spend poking through its dusty corners. Suffice it to say that Nick and I are probably the only two people in history to be delivered to the castle gates in a tow truck. That's right - an actual neon-striped AA tow truck. Our rental car succumbed to massive electrical system failure at a services station en route to Warwickshire. Three hours later and one tow to a dealership, the driver took pity on us and drove us to the castle for a rushed hour of touring before it closed. Ed didn't get to join us - he had to spend another hour to pick up the new car. Needless to say, Warwick will be a do-over for all of us, as the kids would say.

In spite of our hurry, the castle and grounds were breathtaking. We arrived just as the sun was beginning to sink low in the sky and make the River Avon shimmer. At first, the light was blue-gray and misty. Then in less than half an hour, the atmosphere changed, and the sunset was magnificent. We climbed the towers to take in the views, and Nick captured this shot of Ethelfleda's Mound just as the sun was going down.

A note about the tower climb. When the signs say it is a strenuous climb, take heed! Though there are more than 500 steps to climb the three towers and walk along the high walls edging the castle keep, these are not normal steps. They are in spiral formation, made of slippery stone, and they are very, very steep. At one point, we were climbing on our hands and knees to get to the top. Most of the tight stairwells have handrails, but some do not. Here's the kicker - you cannot turn around. Once you've begun the journey, the only way out is at the finish line! One thing is certain - the views are absolutely incredible and worth every leg-shaking, breath-stealing step. You won't be sorry you made the effort.

Historical records reveal that Warwick Castle was established by William the Conquerer in 1068 high on a hilltop overlooking the surrounding valleys and the River Avon. Through many changes in command and ownership, the castle was rebuilt, expanded, refined and fortified, with towers and battlements incorporated into its footprint. The structure and compound are impressive and have stood the test of time.

The interiors of the castle are stunning, filled with artwork, battle memorabilia textiles, and period furnishings. Converted into a country house in the late 17th Century by the Earl of Warwick, the rooms are dressed with wax figurines created by Madame Tussaud's to simulate an 1800s Royal Weekend Party. For those of you who love period clothing, you will not be disappointed. And for those who would rather study the hand-wrought swords, narwal horns, and other medieval weaponry, the Great Hall artifacts are part of England's legacy.

Warwick Castle
Castle Hill
Warwick, Warwickshire CV34 4QU
Information Line (recorded): 0871 265 2000
www.warwick-castle.co.uk

Roasts at The Warren

Sunday roasts are a time-honored English tradition carried out at family tables through the United Kingdom. The slow-cooked meats, sizzling in hot ovens and on open fire grills for hours and hours on a Sunday afternoon, take on the tenderest of textures as savory juices add unmatched flavor to the meal.

We tried the Sunday roast meal at The Warren, a lovely "country pub and eating house" tucked into the Berkshire countryside in Wokingham. The restaurant itself was at once elegant and warm, with modern touches nestled amongst historical farm artifacts. The menu offers just enough global complexity to appease the adventurous diner, but the restaurant's strength is the in the slow-cooked meats.

We began the meal with an antipasti platter - one to be surely reconstructed at home and enjoyed at The Warren again. With luscious sun-dried tomatoes and fresh anchovies, the flatbread-covered plate was the perfect balance of roasted garlic, spicy meats, olives, sweet peppers and crunchy watercress with just enough aged cheese to add a nice bite of salt. All in all, an excellent starter - or even a light main course.

The roasts, which imbued the restaurant with an indescribably tantalizing aroma, did not disappoint. Succulent and fork tender, the British beef, roast pork with apples and spit-fire cooked chicken were distinctive and memorable. My personal favorite on the plate were the ultimate comfort food - crispy balls of homemade stuffing.

The brown gravy was a revelation, made from the combined drippings of all roasted meats and served with each dish. Thick, rich and flavorful, the gravy offered a well-seasoned accent to each of the meats and their accompanying fluffy Yorkshire puddings and roast potatoes. Vegetables are served on the side, with tender-crisp cauliflour, tossed lightly in a warmed cream sauce.

Service was excellent and attentive (thank you Jayne!), and the overall ambience of our fireside table was comfortable and relaxed. Count on a crowd - so bookings are advised.

To find out more about The Warren and its sister pubs in Maidenhead and Reading, visit www.thewarrenwokingham.co.uk.
The Warren Forest Road, Wokingham, Berkshire, RG40 5SB
Call 01344 304 446 to make your table reservation.

Don't forget to enjoy a soothing cup of creamy capucinno to finish off the meal - it's very nice!