English Spring

The leaves are beginning to green the trees, and flowers are popping up all over the countryside.  Still wearing a coat to block the chilly wind, but it finally feels like Spring!


These lovely blooms were a breath of Spring in a quiet churchyard along the River Kennet in Reading. 

What sunshine is to flowers, smiles are to humanity. 

These are but trifles, to be sure; 

but, scattered along life's pathway, the good they do is inconceivable.  

 Joseph Addison (1672 - 1719)

Dining with a View: English Motorways

Dining above the lanes of screeching traffic?

Strange, indeed.  But the Motorways in North England seem to position food services (of very non-gourmet food) mid-air between the northbound and southbound lanes.

What an odd experience!

Shrove Tuesday: 500 Years of English Pancakes

For 500 years, teams across England have been flipping pancakes in a 4-person team relay race on Shrove Tuesday.

As legend has it, the annual competition began when a harried housewife heard the church bells while making pancakes, and ran all the way to the church flipping her pancake the entire way.

First run in 1445, the race honors UK culture by launching day-before-Lent celebrations.  These races are a nod back to England's rich cultural and community traditions, and teams get into the spirit with sometimes bawdy costumes and hilarious makeup.

The rules are simple.

• No whacking opponents with the pancake pan.  
• The pancake must be flipped three times, at least two feet in the air, during the runner's course of the relay.  
• Traditional "housewife" costumes must be worn, including an apron, head covering and skirt. 
• And no flagrant "pancake foolery" by holding onto the pancake while running!

Representing the Thames Valley Women's Club, the "Hotcake Hotties" and "Those Flippin' Americans" did their home country proud in this year's Flipping Windsor and Eton Pancake Challenge.  Everyone finished the race, nobody embarrassed themselves too badly, and we all had a good laugh in the end.

Since the race was run to support local charities, our efforts were all in a good day's fun.

Windsor Castle and Her Majesty's Kitchens

Perhaps one of the greatest national treasures in England is Windsor Castle.  The magnificent structure has been in operation for more than 900 years and is one of the Queen's official residences today. 

These walls have seen the passing of the crown through nearly 40 generations of royals. It is the largest working castle in the world, with more than 160 residents.  Much of the castle is off limits and business carries on as usual throughout the day, with a cleaning staff of 100+ to keep it pristine.


Unless you are in a helicopter, it is impossible to photograph the vast exterior in a single shot.

Though interior photography is strictly prohibited, with its exquisite art and furnishings, a massive show of weaponry and medieval armor, and raw history in every room, the castle is astonishing.  Count on spending at least a full day.  The complementary audio tour offers exceptional insight into each room and firsthand interviews with historians, including recollections and explanations on the rebuilding process after the great fire of 1992, as seen in this BBC news shot.  The first time we visited England was just after the fire, and I still recall seeing the charred stones and the smell of lingering smoke in the air.  Inside now, the castle is flawless. In fact, the fire revealed 14th century stone arches hidden beneath waterlogged woodwork.  According to our guide, the archaeological wealth of information obtained during the restoration process was significant and included an previously undocumented well and larders.

We purchased an extra ticket to have a behind-the-scenes tour of the Queen's kitchens, which are only open to the public when state dinners and other functions are not taking place.  For a foodie like me, it was fascinating!   To the left is a historical perspective on the main kitchen space, with Gothic arches and vaulted ceilings.  Ancient Kitchen, Windsor Castle, engraved by William James Bennett 1787-1844 from The History of the Royal Residences by William Henry Pyne 1769-1843 pub. 1818, a painting by James Stephanoff.

To the right, the kitchen following the restoration post-fire and before decorating.  The historical integrity and some of the original timbers were retained while modern amenities were updated, and an improved ceiling ventilation system was cleverly disguised behind custom woodwork. During the restoration, the 30+ chefs and sous chefs asked for additional task lighting to illuminate their work surfaces.

The room is now lined with an impressive collection of copper cookware emblazoned with royal insignias and gathered from royal estates throughout the UK.  Though the cookware is not used for food prep today, the chefs provide their own preferred equipment for cooking, and still rely on a Victorian-era gas range installed in one of the alcoves. Decorative iron spits sit at both ends of the room.  A separate cold kitchen with walk-in refrigerator is adjacent to the main space, and an 18th century wine cellar still in use grounds the staff dining space.  An elevator shuttles food up to the state dining rooms from the kitchens.  When cooking is underway, the guide staff revealed that the tone in the kitchen is quiet and relaxed.

Good to know: if you purchase your ticket to the castle on site, you can receive a special stamp to allow free re-entry into the castle grounds for up to one year. Take advantage and go back several times.  I predict you'll discover something new each time you visit.

www.windsor.gov.uk

Soothing music to my ears in the London Underground

Sometimes, music can truly take you away. We've all heard the musicians playing in bus and train stations, performing on street corners.  But did you know that in London this process requires a busker's audition and an annual license?

According to the Underground's website, "The London Underground (LU) busking scheme was set up in 2003 to manage what was previously an illegal and unregulated activity."

Now, more than 400 buskers play in two-hour time slots to 3000 music events every week in Tube stations. So the next time you pass a busker - pause to listen, pay a compliment, or share a smile.  It is their job to entertain us, and our job to appreciate what they do.

Breakfast with a Side of History -- Woodlands Park Hotel in Stoke D'Abernon, Surrey

This morning offered one of those rare occasions that has left an indelible impression on us.  Ever the hungry Americans, Nick and I went in search of breakfast in Surrey.  (Mind you, fast food as we know it in the states barely exists in the UK - it's just not done!) As we were driving down a country road, we came upon the stunning Woodlands Park Hotel and took a chance.

When we asked a dapper-looking hotel employee if they were open for breakfast, he glanced at his watch, smiled broadly and told us to park and come on inside.  His first words as he greeted us at the front door were "I must warn you, as you walk through these doors you will enter a house of sin and debauchery."  The hotel earned its reputation as a party house well before the end of the 19th century.

Imagine our surprise when we realized they'd set a beautiful table by the window and re-opened the Benson's Brasserie just for us!  My  kudos and compliments go to the chef - I enjoyed perhaps the best Eggs Benedict I've had in years.  The Hollandaise was superbly creamy and rich, with well balanced seasonings.  We liked the food and hospitality so much that we're going back for a proper Sunday lunch in the Oak Room, a magnificent wood-paneled space with a view to the grounds.

Though we weren't guests in the hotel, after breakfast, Joe - our personal concierge and the man who invited us in - took us on a splendid tour of the property, sharing insight and fascinating historical tidbits. There is a tricky poltergeist residing in room 39, which many guests have experienced and come back to visit.

Built in 1884 by Rowland Plumbe and funded by the fortunes of the Bryant and May match company, Plumbe "was commissioned with a  free hand, unfettered in the slightest degree by economical considerations." The grand country retreat of Frederick C. Bryant, the house was once considered the most modern house in all of England, with every convenience including an Otis elevator and electric lighting. As a jewel of Edwardian Society, the home regularly hosted the likes of the then Prince of Wales who went onto become King Edward VII, one of his 11 known mistresses Lillie Langtry, and the notorious playwright Oscar Wilde.


After a meticulous restoration in the early 1980s, the hotel now offers luxurious accommodations with all modern conveniences for a reasonable price in a lovely country setting.  If you're feeling decadent, opt for the Master's Chamber, Lillie Langtry's favorite room, or the splendid Oscar Wilde Suite. 


And without a doubt, ask for Joe and spend some time with him.  His philosophy?  "We are in the hospitality business.  Why come to an historic place and not be treated to a tour and a bit of knowledge about what makes it so special?"

Joe, you are an absolute delight.

Woodlands Park Hotel
Woodlands Lane
Stoke D'Abernon
Cobham, Surrey KT11 3QB
0845 072 7581
handpickedhotels.co.uk

Dining -- Warwick style

Ever the foodie, I of course loved studying the dining style in Warwick Castle. Social history and the everyday details of life in other time periods fascinate me.

Because feasting was such an important event, artisans captured the images in stained glass. This tiny window was tucked into a peak of the chapel's anteroom, but I was struck by its level of fine detail. Notice the high spirits of the guests and the lavishness of the feast on the table, from the wild game to the abundance of fruits and wine. In one of the castle's interior rooms, a depiction of King Henry VIII with his wives is arranged around another indulgent feast.

In the grand dining room, the table was set with crystal and exquisite china. The classic table setting for formal occasions was as appropriate in centuries past as it is now - elegance defined. And it seems that every era craves sweets.

Warwick Castle - One of Britain's Gems

Let me preface this post by saying that medieval castles are really cool, no matter how run down or preserved they are and no matter how long you get to spend poking through its dusty corners. Suffice it to say that Nick and I are probably the only two people in history to be delivered to the castle gates in a tow truck. That's right - an actual neon-striped AA tow truck. Our rental car succumbed to massive electrical system failure at a services station en route to Warwickshire. Three hours later and one tow to a dealership, the driver took pity on us and drove us to the castle for a rushed hour of touring before it closed. Ed didn't get to join us - he had to spend another hour to pick up the new car. Needless to say, Warwick will be a do-over for all of us, as the kids would say.

In spite of our hurry, the castle and grounds were breathtaking. We arrived just as the sun was beginning to sink low in the sky and make the River Avon shimmer. At first, the light was blue-gray and misty. Then in less than half an hour, the atmosphere changed, and the sunset was magnificent. We climbed the towers to take in the views, and Nick captured this shot of Ethelfleda's Mound just as the sun was going down.

A note about the tower climb. When the signs say it is a strenuous climb, take heed! Though there are more than 500 steps to climb the three towers and walk along the high walls edging the castle keep, these are not normal steps. They are in spiral formation, made of slippery stone, and they are very, very steep. At one point, we were climbing on our hands and knees to get to the top. Most of the tight stairwells have handrails, but some do not. Here's the kicker - you cannot turn around. Once you've begun the journey, the only way out is at the finish line! One thing is certain - the views are absolutely incredible and worth every leg-shaking, breath-stealing step. You won't be sorry you made the effort.

Historical records reveal that Warwick Castle was established by William the Conquerer in 1068 high on a hilltop overlooking the surrounding valleys and the River Avon. Through many changes in command and ownership, the castle was rebuilt, expanded, refined and fortified, with towers and battlements incorporated into its footprint. The structure and compound are impressive and have stood the test of time.

The interiors of the castle are stunning, filled with artwork, battle memorabilia textiles, and period furnishings. Converted into a country house in the late 17th Century by the Earl of Warwick, the rooms are dressed with wax figurines created by Madame Tussaud's to simulate an 1800s Royal Weekend Party. For those of you who love period clothing, you will not be disappointed. And for those who would rather study the hand-wrought swords, narwal horns, and other medieval weaponry, the Great Hall artifacts are part of England's legacy.

Warwick Castle
Castle Hill
Warwick, Warwickshire CV34 4QU
Information Line (recorded): 0871 265 2000
www.warwick-castle.co.uk

A true traditional butcher! Green's of Pangbourne!

What a pleasure it is to walk into a shop dedicated to the finer things in the foodie's life - fresh farm-raised meat, homemade pies, and savory treats. Green's of Pangbourne is such a place.

Quality of ingredients means everything to the aspiring gourmet, and Green's is dedicated to providing nothing but the finest selection. In fact, the shop has been awarded a most prestigious accolade. Green's is South England's Butchers Shop of the Year for 2009. Impressive!

The staff is friendly and charming, and the service impeccable. While we visited the tiny shop, the aroma of slow-simmered beef and vegetables filled the space, triggering an amazing burst of hunger. Known for its meat pies, Green's makes a wide assortment of the delectable pastries and sells more than 1000 each week. Since most top-crust pies are similar in appearance, Green's uses a clever code to tell them apart- they label each pie with pastry initials to identify the contents.

Known for the quality of its meats, Green's turns out sausages by the hundreds, if not thousands each week. I'm intrigued by the variety - especially the venison and red wine sausage and the pork, chili and apricot. To satisfy our curiosity this first visit, we opted for the traditional pork sausage. And of course, we stocked up on Green's homemade mango chutney to use as an accompaniment.

But the pies are warm and ready to eat now, and my kitchen smells beyond good.

Don't worry. I won't disappoint, hungry readers! I promise an interview with the legendary chef Philip Cripps in the near future and we'll talk about his skills at turning out free-range scotch eggs, French quiches, and the comfort food of all comfort foods, cottage pie.

Indulge in a meat pie today!

If you're curious, visit www.greensofpangbourne.com.
10 Whitchurch Road
Pangbourne, Berkshire RG8 7BP

Peace

Of all the military and civilian memorabilia on display at the Imperial War Museum, this newspaper announcement was the most breathtaking in its simplicity.

What a striking image of Europe, and the world, at peace.

Rare Finds at the Imperial War Museum

Nick and I ventured into London today for a visit to the Imperial War Museum. The structure itself is grand, and we barely scratched the surface of the exhibits. When we entered the impressive space, Nick was immediately drawn to the World War II German Jadgpanther anti-tank weapon on display. According to military records, there are fewer than 10 remaining in the world. I thought the treads were intriguing.


The other vehicle of note was Monty's personal tank, a Grant. Lieutenant-Colonel Bernard Montgomery ("Monty") turned the tides of the war for the allies as he led the second battle of El Alamein. As a result of his spectacular performance leading this battle, he earned the prestigous title "Viscount Montgomery of Alamein."

Much of the museum is dedicated to special exhibits on weaponry, uniforms and memorabilia, news coverage and personal letters. The museum shares fascinating insight into the First and Second World Wars from a European perspective, and also covers military engagements around the world before and since. We will definitely spend more time in this national treasure.

Wokingham, my Wokingham

I truly love living in a village. Everything I need is just a short walk away - fine groceries, dry goods, services, transportation. I've become very English with my shopping trolley to wheel behind me as I walk! Most days, I don't even miss having a car.

People here are quite trusting, and honesty is the unwritten rule. It's very interesting to shop here. The stores expect customers to supply their own shopping bags. At the grocery, a scanner is provided for those registered in a shopper's program. Customers will walk through the shop and scan and pack their own merchandise as they go along. No need to check out - they've already done it via the handheld scanner. They simply return the scanner and leave when they've packed up their bags. I just can't imagine this happening in America. People are too suspicious by nature, and petty crime is too prevalent. It's quite refreshing to become a part of this culture.

Wokingham itself has it's own charming character. History is everywhere, interspersed with modern conveniences. At the town's market center, the old church sits on the edge of a pedestrian plaza. Each week, produce, meat and other vendors set up stalls in an open-air market. Pubs are on every block and they always seem to be packed with locals.

The homes are also quite beautiful. Here's a great shot of the Tudor home next door to me at night in the snow. While it once was a private residence, now it houses the local "surgery," or doctor's office.

Snow, snow and more beautiful snow

England is truly lovely in the snow. The country seems to slow down as the temperatures drop below zero. People stay tucked in their homes, or better yet, they walk through the villages with ski poles to guide them.

We had a great adventure in Surrey last week, with a fabulous snow-in party with Carla and Mike's neighbors and friends at their home, Headley House. Roast lamb chops, duck and caramelized onion sandwiches, slow-baked potatoes in cream with fresh herbs - too much delicious food to name.

Point of fact, houses here in England are named, and the names are the addresses. Carla and Mike live in Headley House next door to Honeypot House - how cool is that name? How anyone can find each other is nothing short of a miracle!

Funny thing was, we took the train to get to Headley House in Cobham. When it was time to for us to say goodbye, we found we were snowed in! Spent the night, tried the train twice more the following day and ultimately rented a car. Now that was an adventure, let me tell you, with right hand drive and a left-hand shift. Dicey at best in the slush and snowdrifts!

The snow was amazing and coated the trees in crystal ice. Simply gorgeous! So different from what we experience in Atlanta. All in all, it snowed on and off for almost a week, and the accumulation was about eight inches. From what we understand, the weather is extremely unusual for this part of the world. We've loved it!

Home Sweet Home

We're getting settled in our lovely village home on Rectory Road. We now live in a turn of the century police station, and our main living room is the former courtroom. Wonder what stories loom in these walls? I'm digging to find out more about this great building, and I'll share when I have good info.

Here's a shot of our home as the snow was just beginning to melt. We occupy the left side of the building, from the arched doorway over. The main living space is two stories with timbered ceilings (photos to come). The windows are stained glass. Our bedroom is downstairs, and Nick is living up the spiral staircase in the bell tower just under the pigeons' favorite roosting spot.

In case you're wondering, yes, pigeons are indeed chatty. He claims they chat all the time. . .

In the Grand University Town

We enjoyed a terrific trip to Oxford the other night, to send our friends Peter and Sara off to America. They're moving to Melville, NY just as we're moving here!

Their son Samuel is an Oxford student pursuing Greek and Latin studies. He explained that the classes involve meeting with scholars educated in a particular subject for discussion. There are no textbook or reading lists for the classes - students are expected to learn the subjects on their own and be tested late in the school year. The homework? Essays. Lots of them, which they must defend. The most amazing thing to us (Americans) was that there is no central campus. Oxford University is spread out across the entire town. And those classes we talked about? Here's the big surprise. Two students, possibly three, per "class." Talk about personalized education!

We shared a great meal at Brown's, and afterward, Samuel led us through narrow alleys to get to his favorite pub. Can't recall the name of it, but the pub name across the street amazed us - the Nosebag. Ha!

Dinner at the Ship Inn

We found a nice local pub just after we moved in. It's called the Ship Inn, and the main room with the crackling fire was filled with football fans cheering on their teams in a very British way. They didn't yell or make gestures like the Americans might - they shared their pints and smiled or frowned a lot. We enjoyed watching their reactions to great plays - so restrained!

A bit about pub protocol: you find your seat, review the menu then place your order and pay at the bar. Most pubs will deliver the food to your table - but you have to take that all important first step of ordering first at the bar! If you forget, you'll be waiting a very long time for your food!

Great bangers and mash, excellent meat pies and braised beef. And of course, there's Guinness. Always Guinness!

Sunday night at the Ship is quiz night, where table teams compete for prizes. Still trying to find a place with darts . . .

Shopping in Reading

Reading is a town just a few train stops away. It's actually a city, filled with commerce and SHOPPING! The Oracle Mall is situated on the River Kennett, and many of the streets surrounding the shopping area are pedestrians only.

Mike and Nick went to a movie, and when they came out, the entire city had been blanketed in white! It was beautiful, and all through dinner with Ed at Bella Italia, the snow kept coming down. It was truly invigorating. Of course, Nick got stuck pulling the shopping trolley through the snow so Mike and I could photograph. He's a jolly good sport!

Cold, Rainy Moving Day

Greetings friends!
It's Michelle here, chatting to you from cold and rainy Wokingham, England. The forecast calls for rain and snow, and the winds are blustery.

Today is moving day. We're shifting our thousand (feels like it anyway) suitcases and bags over to our more permanent temporary home on Rectory Road. I just got a glimpse of the new flat and it's gorgeous. Stained glass, herringbone wood floors, vaulted and timbered ceilings.

The big challenge: no kitchen drawers! And no closets!

How will I manage? Stay tuned!