The Town Hall Wine Bar in Staines

Looking for a bit of atmosphere and some good pub grub after a long morning combing the stalls for treasures at Sunbury?  How about a nice glass of wine to help you relax? 

Pop into Staines town center and visit The Town Hall, a contemporary bar with enough space for all Six Nations.  Part sports bar, part historical structure, The Town Hall offers indoor games and outdoor tables on a patio alongside fountains with a river view. 

If you're in the mood for a warm sandwich, the Famous S&J Melt was nice, with a tangy sweet barbecue sauce to complement well-prepared chicken.  And of course, you can never go wrong with a generous helping of curly fries and onion rings.

Town Hall Wine Bar
Market Square
Staines, Surrey TW18 4
01784 464 822

Athens, Greece Travel: Tips and Warnings

After a weekend in the city of Athens, I learned some good lessons that I must pass on to all of you.


What to Expect in Athens:

• Graffiti and Orange Trees.  They both line virtually every street in the city (except the ancient monuments).  It's an odd combination.
• Excellent food.  This goes without saying - eat well, ask Greeks for recommendations, and use your hotel's concierge services to make reservations for you.
• Walking.  You'll miss out on a great deal of culture and history if you rely on taxis to get you from place to place.  You need to walk down from the Acropolis, through the Ancient Agora and into the Plaka.  Wear comfortable shoes.  Streets are cobbled and uneven. 
• An international culture.  Many people speak multiple languages.  English is the second language of choice.  (One of our restaurant greeters told us the biggest mistake he ever made was only learning 7 languages.)
• Ouzo.  Drink it over ice for a pearl-colored treat with a licorice flavor that's sure to please.  A small glass is the perfect way to start - and finish - a meal.

What to Watch Out for:

• Taxis. Unlike other cities where taxi rides are individual, in Athens they are often shared. Everyone pays the same fare. Taxi drivers might not take you if they don't want to go where you do.  Most cabs don't have meters they seem to use often enough. Ask a hotel person what the fare should be from point A to point B so you have some idea in advance.  Like in any big city, the unscrupulous drivers do exist.  And it's amazing how their second language skills disappear when you are trying to negotiate a fare.  Ask and clarify the approximate fare up front, and encourage use of the meter. And never pay more than what is showing on the meter, even if you're asked to. Always try to have an address written down to show them, and get out a map to follow their progress through the streets - it will help you learn the city and keep them on track.
• Waiters.  Amazing how their English evaporates when they keep bringing dishes  and wine to the table that you didn't order but get billed for anyway. They keep smiling and saying, "'tis okay."  A "cheap" lunch quickly turned into more than 50 Euros when the waiter at one tourist-filled taverna in the Plaka did just that to us.  Be firm and send something back if you didn't order it, then double check your bill.  Good rule to follow: if you see lots of tourists dining, go to another place.  The locals know much better.

Dinner at Papadakis with Chef Argyro Barbarigou

Upon the recommendation of our friend Lazaros, we dined in Chef Argyro Barbarigou's kitchen at "Papadakis" in Kolonaki.  Chef Argyro is well known for her television performances, magazine articles and cookbooks. Though we didn't get to meet in person, we felt and appreciated her handiwork all through our memorable meal.

Situated high in the hills near elegant shops and homes of Kolonaki, the restaurant is at once sophisticated and refined.  With white linen cloths, sleek dinnerware and an abundance of fresh blooms, our expectation of a good meal was happily matched by the fine quality of the food and exceptional service.

Presentation of the food was outstanding, with fish soup poured into broad-rimmed bowls from silver carafes.  Argyro's salad was divine, with warm sweet-roasted peppers, aubergine, onion and courgette topped with a mound of creamy cheese.  To our surpise, when our starters were cleared the chef shared four portions of specialties for us to enjoy.  We sampled marinated shrimp with hot chiles, smoked aubergine in olive oil, octopus in a sweet wine and honey sauce over crispy potatoes, and marvelous smoky chickpeas.  Though the menu was Greek, the mixture of varying Mediterranean influences in the cooking proved to be both unexpected and refreshing.

Of course, after this bounty of delectable food, we would have been perfectly satisifed - but the main courses were still on the way!  Generous portions of wild mushroom risotto with shaved parmesan, orzo with langoustines and risotto with squid followed - all of which were prepared and seasoned on point.

For dessert, the chef surprised us again by sharing a decadent chocolate confection, a fluffy cheesecake with candied orange and a refreshing mandarin orange sorbet.  Again, this course was a perfect demonstration of quality ingredients combined with superb technique.

To finish our meal with a digestif, a platter was delivered to the table with slender shot glasses, a bottle of a Chios liqueur called Masticha, and a signature blend of fresh strawberries, sugar and vodka. 

If you have a chance to visit this amazing restaurant, please do.  Make reservations in advance (through a Greek friend, if you can).  Be prepared to enjoy a leisurely meal in elegant surroundings. 

Papadakis

15 Fokilidou and Voukourestiou Sts.

Athens
30-210-360-8621

A Greek lunch at Paradosiako: where the locals dine

Tucked away down a narrow alley crammed with motorbikes and sidewalk-parked cars, you might find a great little taverna called Paradosiako. I say might, because I found it by accident, even though I was looking for it in the first place! The locals don't always know where these restaurants are - they don't frequently dine out near where they work.

In any case, Eugenia and Dimitris are the owners, and they do a brisk business with little room for conversation. At lunchtime, I was the only tourist (dining alone!). The rest of the patrons were locals, chatting exuberantly in Greek. The entire time I was there, no one spoke English to me, but I managed to order a beautiful meal and enjoy my view on the tiny restaurant. I wish I could have asked more questions, but I made do. Dimitris just smiled at me, nodded, and brought me my food.

Inside, there were five tables, outside three. The restaurant is perhaps 12 - feet wide and the decor very simple. From my table at the back of the room, I looked out onto two buildings across the street, one modern and efficient, and the other crumbling with pigeons fluttering into open windows.

My food arrived, and I was treated to tarama salata like I've never had before. I do believe it was chick-pea based, like hummus, with just enough fish roe to make it salty and a dash of red onion to give it a nice zing. Served with rye bread and drizzled with olive oil, it was a delicious way to start the meal. I followed that with grilled fresh lemon-squeezed kalamarakia, Charred and crispy on the outside and tender and moist inside.

So here are my tips for dining alone in a foreign city:

• know where you're going in advance - read travel reviews and get recommendations
• be prepared to people watch
• take a book or a journal
• ask to sit facing the window
• try something new to eat - if you don't like it, leave it!

Paradosiako

somewhere on Nikodimou or Voulis, Athens

Filistron in Athens!

Valentine's Day is fast approaching, and my husband surprised me with a weekend trip to Greece. What fun! Little did we know that the day before we arrived, the airports were closed due to a controller strike, the day we arrived the taxis were on strike, and tomorrow and Sunday the private sector is supposed to go on strike. Wow!

Even so, we met with our friends Lazaros and Bernhard for a wonderful meal at Filistron Restaurant. It's a small place frequented by Greek families, tucked high in the hills overlooking the Acropolis and Lycabettus. The night lighting provided a wonderful backdrop for our meal in the cozy restaurant. We also learned that the word "Filistros" was a word in Orphic hymns that referred to the state of "oistros," or a state filled with desire or lust.

Let me tell you, this restaurant's food can indeed inspire desire and lust. Amazing. Simply amazing.  We liked it so much we dined there again two days later - and it was every bit as delicious.

Meals are served on small sharing plates, much like the tapas of Spain. We enjoyed and incredible Greek salad with Feta cheese and rich olive oil, dolmades - the stuffed vine leaves with rice, pine nuts and yogurt sauce, tryopita - homemade cheese pie from Skopelos, tsatsiki - a refreshing cucumber and dill spread, and perhaps the unanimous favorite of all, veal stuffed aubergine (with a hint of cinnamon in the meat) in a tomato, cream and olive oil sauce with a sprinkling of shredded cheese.  The halloumi cheese was perfectly grilled, and Lazaros showed us that the Greeks eat it with fresh squeezed lemon juice on top - delicious!  We tasted slow cooked chicken and pork in incredibly flavorful sauces, and meat-stuffed onions. The plates kept coming until we could barely eat any more. And then they brought out the dessert!

Two dessert dishes we'll definitely make at home: creamy Greek yogurt layered with honey and toasted walnuts, and a rum-soaked cake with layers of Greek yogurt and pistachios, honey and blueberries.

Our bonus for the meal? We had companions. A stray mama cat and her litter of kittens perched on the ledge just next to where I was sitting, meowing for treats through the glass.

Our unanimous verdict? Filistron is fabulous. If you go early, the crowds will be minimal. But since Greeks tend to eat dinner around 10 pm, you'll notice it gets more crowded as the evening goes on. Go hungry. Stay late. Enjoy everything!

http://www.filistron.com/
Greece phone: 2103422897

Loch Fyne : A Fine Bite to Eat

Seafood lovers will enjoy an evening at Loch Fyne Oyster and Seafood Restaurant.  We visited the Wokingham location the other night, and thoroughly enjoyed our meal.  Drinks were a bit pricey, but the menu did offer good nightly specials with limited quantities.  Wait staff tended well to diner's needs and offered friendly smiles and conversation.

At our table, a trio of uniquely flavored pieces of salmon as a starter was a delightful way to become familiar with the varying smoking techniques Loch Fyne uses to enhance the fish.  With mussels soft and tender, and scallops prepared to perfection, we knew to trust the chef's technique with delicate fresh seafood.  Main courses of crisp pan-fried bream and a generous portion of Friday night comfort food fish pie followed. 

46 locations throughout the United Kingdom. 
www.lochfyne.com

Breakfast with a Side of History -- Woodlands Park Hotel in Stoke D'Abernon, Surrey

This morning offered one of those rare occasions that has left an indelible impression on us.  Ever the hungry Americans, Nick and I went in search of breakfast in Surrey.  (Mind you, fast food as we know it in the states barely exists in the UK - it's just not done!) As we were driving down a country road, we came upon the stunning Woodlands Park Hotel and took a chance.

When we asked a dapper-looking hotel employee if they were open for breakfast, he glanced at his watch, smiled broadly and told us to park and come on inside.  His first words as he greeted us at the front door were "I must warn you, as you walk through these doors you will enter a house of sin and debauchery."  The hotel earned its reputation as a party house well before the end of the 19th century.

Imagine our surprise when we realized they'd set a beautiful table by the window and re-opened the Benson's Brasserie just for us!  My  kudos and compliments go to the chef - I enjoyed perhaps the best Eggs Benedict I've had in years.  The Hollandaise was superbly creamy and rich, with well balanced seasonings.  We liked the food and hospitality so much that we're going back for a proper Sunday lunch in the Oak Room, a magnificent wood-paneled space with a view to the grounds.

Though we weren't guests in the hotel, after breakfast, Joe - our personal concierge and the man who invited us in - took us on a splendid tour of the property, sharing insight and fascinating historical tidbits. There is a tricky poltergeist residing in room 39, which many guests have experienced and come back to visit.

Built in 1884 by Rowland Plumbe and funded by the fortunes of the Bryant and May match company, Plumbe "was commissioned with a  free hand, unfettered in the slightest degree by economical considerations." The grand country retreat of Frederick C. Bryant, the house was once considered the most modern house in all of England, with every convenience including an Otis elevator and electric lighting. As a jewel of Edwardian Society, the home regularly hosted the likes of the then Prince of Wales who went onto become King Edward VII, one of his 11 known mistresses Lillie Langtry, and the notorious playwright Oscar Wilde.


After a meticulous restoration in the early 1980s, the hotel now offers luxurious accommodations with all modern conveniences for a reasonable price in a lovely country setting.  If you're feeling decadent, opt for the Master's Chamber, Lillie Langtry's favorite room, or the splendid Oscar Wilde Suite. 


And without a doubt, ask for Joe and spend some time with him.  His philosophy?  "We are in the hospitality business.  Why come to an historic place and not be treated to a tour and a bit of knowledge about what makes it so special?"

Joe, you are an absolute delight.

Woodlands Park Hotel
Woodlands Lane
Stoke D'Abernon
Cobham, Surrey KT11 3QB
0845 072 7581
handpickedhotels.co.uk

Roasts at The Warren

Sunday roasts are a time-honored English tradition carried out at family tables through the United Kingdom. The slow-cooked meats, sizzling in hot ovens and on open fire grills for hours and hours on a Sunday afternoon, take on the tenderest of textures as savory juices add unmatched flavor to the meal.

We tried the Sunday roast meal at The Warren, a lovely "country pub and eating house" tucked into the Berkshire countryside in Wokingham. The restaurant itself was at once elegant and warm, with modern touches nestled amongst historical farm artifacts. The menu offers just enough global complexity to appease the adventurous diner, but the restaurant's strength is the in the slow-cooked meats.

We began the meal with an antipasti platter - one to be surely reconstructed at home and enjoyed at The Warren again. With luscious sun-dried tomatoes and fresh anchovies, the flatbread-covered plate was the perfect balance of roasted garlic, spicy meats, olives, sweet peppers and crunchy watercress with just enough aged cheese to add a nice bite of salt. All in all, an excellent starter - or even a light main course.

The roasts, which imbued the restaurant with an indescribably tantalizing aroma, did not disappoint. Succulent and fork tender, the British beef, roast pork with apples and spit-fire cooked chicken were distinctive and memorable. My personal favorite on the plate were the ultimate comfort food - crispy balls of homemade stuffing.

The brown gravy was a revelation, made from the combined drippings of all roasted meats and served with each dish. Thick, rich and flavorful, the gravy offered a well-seasoned accent to each of the meats and their accompanying fluffy Yorkshire puddings and roast potatoes. Vegetables are served on the side, with tender-crisp cauliflour, tossed lightly in a warmed cream sauce.

Service was excellent and attentive (thank you Jayne!), and the overall ambience of our fireside table was comfortable and relaxed. Count on a crowd - so bookings are advised.

To find out more about The Warren and its sister pubs in Maidenhead and Reading, visit www.thewarrenwokingham.co.uk.
The Warren Forest Road, Wokingham, Berkshire, RG40 5SB
Call 01344 304 446 to make your table reservation.

Don't forget to enjoy a soothing cup of creamy capucinno to finish off the meal - it's very nice!

Peri, Peri Power

We had our first taste of Portuguese flavoring this evening at a restaurant called Nando's in Reading on the River Kennet. The aroma was incredible - the open-fire grill sizzled with a rich blend of seasoned chicken and basting sauces. The restaurant calls their favored dish Peri-Peri Afro-Portuguese chicken.

Our meal started with grilled halloumi cheese and fresh-baked pitta bread. The halloumi is mild and a little more full-bodied and buttery than mozzarella, and grilling adds a nice smoked flavor to the cheese.

For dinner, I had a grilled chicken Caesar while Nick had wings and seasoned chips. Nando's marinates the British chicken overnight to soak in the flavor, and it's wonderful. Kind of zesty like Cajun and a little spicy hot like Indian, with a definite after-kick. If you want more of a kick, the sauces range from mild to extra, extra hot.

And I couldn't resist snapping a really cool shot of the lights overhead the dining room.

Comforts of Home

Ahh, the comfort of Krispy Kreme . . .

The U.S. franchise eateries here are a little more upscale than back at home. This donut shop had white leather sofas, but the taste of those glazed sweets was oh so familiar.

Mike and Nick stopped by McDonalds in Reading. In decor, it rivals most cafes. Modern chandeliers, abstract art, fine leather chairs. What was so very different was the attitude of the workers - the boys were greeted and thanked personally for dining there!

In the Grand University Town

We enjoyed a terrific trip to Oxford the other night, to send our friends Peter and Sara off to America. They're moving to Melville, NY just as we're moving here!

Their son Samuel is an Oxford student pursuing Greek and Latin studies. He explained that the classes involve meeting with scholars educated in a particular subject for discussion. There are no textbook or reading lists for the classes - students are expected to learn the subjects on their own and be tested late in the school year. The homework? Essays. Lots of them, which they must defend. The most amazing thing to us (Americans) was that there is no central campus. Oxford University is spread out across the entire town. And those classes we talked about? Here's the big surprise. Two students, possibly three, per "class." Talk about personalized education!

We shared a great meal at Brown's, and afterward, Samuel led us through narrow alleys to get to his favorite pub. Can't recall the name of it, but the pub name across the street amazed us - the Nosebag. Ha!

Dinner at the Ship Inn

We found a nice local pub just after we moved in. It's called the Ship Inn, and the main room with the crackling fire was filled with football fans cheering on their teams in a very British way. They didn't yell or make gestures like the Americans might - they shared their pints and smiled or frowned a lot. We enjoyed watching their reactions to great plays - so restrained!

A bit about pub protocol: you find your seat, review the menu then place your order and pay at the bar. Most pubs will deliver the food to your table - but you have to take that all important first step of ordering first at the bar! If you forget, you'll be waiting a very long time for your food!

Great bangers and mash, excellent meat pies and braised beef. And of course, there's Guinness. Always Guinness!

Sunday night at the Ship is quiz night, where table teams compete for prizes. Still trying to find a place with darts . . .